How To Install A Helicoil In Aluminum

HeliCoil® Aluminum Rivet (0 reviews) # 35968629. Aluminum Rivet by HeliCoil®. The finest quality at a great price Made for structural and high stress applications. Mar 02, 2007  How to: install Helicoil. Post by wa-chiss » Thu Mar 01. So, I've decided to do a write-up on how to install them for all the good people here on NICO. Take the bolt to your local hardware/ parts store to get a Helicoil. Otherwise you might end up with the wrong size.

Both the Helicoil and Timesert also require drilling and tapping into the oil pan, meaning there will be metal shavings that have a chance to get in the engine. You MAY be OK flushing the crankcase afterwards, but I agree that removing the pan is the best course of action. Thread the Helicoil on the mandrel of the supplied Helicoil installation tool. Liberally apply thread lock to the Helicoil insert. Place the Helicoil insert into the hole. Thread the Helicoil insert into the hole until it rests at least a 1/4 turn below the surface of the metal having the stripped threads repaired. Install the insert using the process previously described, and screw the HeliCoil into the housing until the (non-tang) end of the insert is rotationally aligned with the temporary reference mark. Following this process, the top of the insert is installed 1/4 turn below the top surface of the housing. We have an aluminum part that gets 26 helicoils each (1/4-20.) The first run is only 6 parts, but it'll be repeating. I've only ever used the inserts with tangs, and the simple installation tool that comes in the cheap kits (basically a mandrel with a notch on the end.).

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  1. Plastic
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    Proper way to install screw lock inserts

    I am installing several locking helicoils (M5x0.8) into 6061 using a standard install tool. The problem I am having is that the insert becomes cross threaded once the locking portion begins to engage. Everything goes smoothly up until that point and then it becomes difficult to turn, indicating that it has skipped a thread. I have installed two without any problems (threaded in nice and smooth), but three others I've had to stop and remove them. I'm not sure what I did differently with the ones that worked...maybe just got lucky. On the last couple I tired I made sure to hold the outer body of the tool firmly against the surface to prevent it from lifting, but still no luck.
    Any tips or tricks?
  2. Diamond
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    When I install regular helicoils into aluminum I usually use a squirt of ethyl alcohol as a no-residue lubricant to help the insert through the tool body and into the Al threads. I started doing this ages ago when I was making satellite parts and have continued it with my line of auto parts. Not sure it will help you but it's easy to try.
    Aside from that, try another insertion tool if there's any sign of wear on your current one, and possibly you might try a different insert supplier. Also make sure there's a clean (no burrs/folded over threads) chamfer on the tapped hole entry.
  3. Plastic
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    Thanks for the advice. I've never had problems with regular helicoils, and the locking helicoils I have installed have been small (#2-56) which simply screw in without stretching like the normal insert tool.
    The insertion tool I have is brand new. Good idea with the ethyl alcohol. I'll give that a try and recheck all my tapped holes, maybe increasing the chamfer a bit.
  4. Diamond
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    If you still have problems try to post a few close-up pics of the insert, tool, and tapped hole. It may be the insert has more of a deformed locking coil than normal, disrupting the pitch engagement as you thread it in.
  5. Plastic
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    Originally Posted by Milland
    It may be the insert has more of a deformed locking coil than normal, disrupting the pitch engagement as you thread it in.
    That is exactly what I think is happening. There is one coil in the middle that is deformed (hex shaped, see pic), and at the point when that coil is suppose to engage with the threads it skips a thread.
    I am using Helicoil brand inserts, so I would expect them to work pretty well. I'll try again tomorrow and report back. Thanks!
  6. Stainless
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    jstluise --
    What type of insertion tool are you using? My experience with both standard and prevailing-torque wound-wire inserts is that the basic T-Handle Screw With A Tang-Catching Notch doesn't work nearly as well as the substantially-more-expensive 'pre-winding' type that puts an internally-threaded sleeve over the outside of the insert in addition to the usually-crank-handle threaded tang driver.
    I'll also note that I avoid using wound-wire inserts if I'm allowed to use another type. My favorite off-the-shelf insert is the adhesively-retained solid-sleeve type made by EZ-Lok, followed by pellet-retained solid sleeve inserts such as Long-Lok's T-Sert, key-locking inserts, and wound-wire inserts in about that order. But if you prefer wound-wire inserts, and especially if you need to install bunches of them, I recommend using 'tangless' inserts, which were developed by Kato of Japan thirty-some years ago, and are available today from Kato, Heli-Coil, and one or two other makers. The Kato installation tool for the tangless inserts is right pricy, and the removal tool even more so . . . but those you've tried tangless never want to go back to tanged inserts.
    John
  7. Aluminum
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    +1 on the more expensive 'pre-winder'. Once I started using those, I never had any problems installing the lockers.
  8. Diamond
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    No experience with locking Helicoils, but I have used many Helicoils with and without the pre-winding type tool and had good results.
    My favorite thread repair system is Time Serts though.
    ++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,
  9. Plastic
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    Originally Posted by John Garner
    What type of insertion tool are you using? My experience with both standard and prevailing-torque wound-wire inserts is that the basic T-Handle Screw With A Tang-Catching Notch doesn't work nearly as well as the substantially-more-expensive 'pre-winding' type that puts an internally-threaded sleeve over the outside of the insert in addition to the usually-crank-handle threaded tang driver.
    I am using a prewinder type insert tool; however, it is the cheaper version that McMaster offers (~$30 vs $90). The internally-threaded sleeve on the cheap tool is plastic and I think that is where the problem lies. I discovered that sometimes as the helicoil exists the sleeve the deformed Helicoil thread doesn't always follow the sleeve threads and basically skips a thread. This introduces a gap and eventually causes the Helicoil to skip a thread in the part. I imagine the more spendy tool is much better built (i.e. no plastic threads) and wouldn't cause this problem.
    I did manage to get all Helicoils in once I figured out a little trick. Basically I didn't hold the sleeve flush with the part so I could see the Helicoil being threaded into the hole. As long as the Helicoil stayed compressed the entire time (i.e. no gaps between coils) it threaded in smoothly. Since I could see it the entire time I could stop if it wasn't going right. So, I wasn't really utilizing the 'prewinding' like I should have, but it worked. Next time I won't cheap out with the tool.
    Thanks for the list of other types of inserts...we'll keep those in mind for the future. We primarily built components for satellites and Helicoils are widely accepted as a thread locking methods.
  10. Diamond
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    Originally Posted by jstluise

    Thanks for the list of other types of inserts...we'll keep those in mind for the future. We primarily built components for satellites and Helicoils are widely accepted as a thread locking methods.
    That's amusing, I obviously didn't know that when I wrote my original comment about my own satellite usage. The engineer I was working with was originally planned on using Keenserts, I talked him into helicoils due to the lower weight and volume requirements. I agree with John Garner that the tangless inserts are very nice, but the greater cost for inserts and tooling means I stick with the 'normal' helicoil inserts for my own work. I've installed so many that I rarely have a problem, and I really like their benefits (IMHO) over the other styles.
  11. Banned
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    If you read the instructions it states to hold the tool loosely against the part (when useing a prewinder)
    I have screwed up quite a few before I read the instructions.
  12. Plastic
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    Originally Posted by Heavey Metal
    If you read the instructions it states to hold the tool loosely against the part (when useing a prewinder)
    I have screwed up quite a few before I read the instructions.
    Do you have a link to the instructions? I searched around and couldn't come up with anything. I didn't get any info with the tool, either.
    Hold loosely against? As in, always in contact with the part?
  13. Stainless
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    I had to install 4 Helicoils in the spark plug holes of my forklift a year ago. It takes 18 mm spark plugs and I was surprised at how difficult it was to find the coils, let alone the insertion tool. I ended up with a cheapo plastic tool purchased on the internet, and I had the same results you're having. The first one or two went fine. I wrecked another 5 or 6 before I got the remaining two in. That plastic tool was a piece of crap.
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How To Install A Helicoil In Aluminum Metal

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Aluminum heads require strong threaded connections to keep an engine functioning correctly. The soft nature of aluminum allows threads to pull from their base material when under the strain and pressure of an operating engine. When threads strip from connecting points of an aluminum head, new -- stronger -- threads need to be installed to ensure the heads remain securely attached to the engine block. An installed HeliCoil threaded insert provides a secure threaded connecting point for accessories on engines with aluminum heads.

Step 1

Clean the area where the aluminum threads stripped from the hole in the head with a clean dry rag.

Step 2

Fill all holes around the hole with the damaged threads with paper towels to keep aluminum shavings from entering the ports of the head.

Step 3

How To Install A Helicoil In Aluminum

Installing helicoils in aluminum heads

Install the drill bit contained in a HeliCoil repair kit in the chuck of a drill motor. Coat the drill bit with cutting fluid. Drill the damaged hole to the correct size with the drill bit. Remove aluminum shavings from the hole with the tip of a clean rag.

Step 4

Secure the tap -- included with the repair kit -- in a tee-handle tap wrench. Coat the threads of the tap with cutting fluid and tap the drilled hole in the aluminum head. Clean aluminum shavings from the tapped hole with a clean rag.

Step 5

Thread a HeliCoil threaded insert on the end of the mandrel tool included with the repair kit. Coat the exterior threads of the insert with red threadlocking sealant. Set the end of the threaded insert in the tapped hole. Turn the handle of the mandrel clockwise to thread it in the hole. Continue turning the tool until the top of the insert wits flush with the surface of the head. Reverse your turning direction to remove the mandrel from the insert.

Slide the end of the included tang break-off tool inside the installed threaded insert. Strike the back of the tool with a hammer to break the tang from the insert.

Items you will need

  • Rag
  • Paper towels
  • HeliCoil Repair Kit
  • Drill motor
  • Cutting fluid
  • Tee-handle tap wrench
  • Red threadlocking sealant
  • Hammer

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